Author: William Johnson
Top photo by W. Johnson: Wayside panel on Rockefeller Loop Trail
"On a trail, to walk is to follow." – Robert Moor, On Trails: An Exploration
As Robert Moor noted in his book On Trails, on a trail you are following in the tracks of those that came before you. Others — maybe human, maybe animal, maybe wind and rain — have been there before and will be there after we pass through. Their steps, and ours, are all part of the same trail.
On the Rockefeller Loop Trail, our pathway will take us through old crop fields and cow pastures, past the homes of wild turkeys, down around the Rockefeller House and by the old millpond that was built before the Civil War. Along the way, we might see eastern bluebirds and towhees in the fields, hear the tap-tapping of the yellow-bellied sapsucker in the oaks, or see a bounding deer track crossing the trail at first light. The trail has many things to share, and we'll talk about some of them as we walk.
The Rockefeller Loop Trail starts at the parking lot of the Long Valley Farm access in Spring Lake. There are two trailheads at the parking lot, so we'll start at the wide trailhead by the signboard. As you pass through the fence that edges the parking area, on your left you'll see one of our picnic areas just off the path, hidden in the oak and pine trees. The signboard on your right has a trail map, a copy of our upcoming events, and some helpful information for your park visit.
Next to the signboard, you'll see a mown grassy area that people can picnic in, play frisbee or other sports, or just sit and enjoy the warm sunshine. A road to the right leads to the older area that were in use when the park was a working farm, and which park staff now use as a maintenance and construction area. That road isn't open to the public, so we'll continue our journey on the main trail. As we reach the end of the grassy sward, you'll see a small stand of trees on the right. American holly, black cherry, and others closely crowd together on the trail edge, forming a high perch for birds to keep an eye out for predators and food. Don't be surprised if you see a bright goldfinch or loud mockingbird keeping an eye out for a meal in one of the trees.
Further down the path on the left, you'll find the first wayside exhibit, which is an educational display where you can see some of the different birds that live in the area. It tells you about how the area is an "edge habitat," which is a place where two different habitats touch. All along the first half-mile of the trail, you'll see native grassland meadow on one side and longleaf pine forest on the other. Edge habitats tend to support a greater variety of plants and animals than the interior areas of either one.
As you continue down the trail, you'll come to a small picnic area on the left side, where you can stop and rest if you like. Another hundred feet or so past the picnic table, you'll see a fireline (not a trail) on your left side, next to another wayside exhibit about how fire and the longleaf pine life cycle interact. Firelines are how the park staff, with the support of the regional fire management team, block off areas within the park to make them more manageable during prescribed fires. They are maintained by park staff throughout the year.
Continuing your trip, you'll see one of the old tobacco pack houses on the left. There is another picnic table and trash can nearby. From here, you can see the Rockefeller House where James Stillman Rockefeller and his wife Nancy Carnegie Rockefeller made a vacation home in the late 1930s. In front of the house, by the trail, you'll see a wayside exhibit that discusses the history of Long Valley Farm and the McDiarmid Millpond behind it.
As you stand next to the wayside exhibit, there are several things of interest you can see from here. To the east (the right as you face the Rockefeller House), you can see the former home of Miss Betty, the Rockefeller's live-in cook. Directly to your front, you can see the magnolia grove, Magnolia grandiflora, planted by Mrs. Rockefeller. To the west (left side), the trail continues, and you can see the start of the Cypress Point Loop Trail. There are two buildings to the left as well: a picnic shelter and our canoe storage building. Both are historical buildings that were built on the farm over the years and are still in use.
To your right, take the short trail to the opening in the fence that surrounds the magnolia grove. Turn to your left after you pass through, and you'll have a chance to take a rest in Mrs. Rockefeller's magnolia garden. Scattered throughout the garden are benches and several exhibits, where you can learn about the history of the park, the Rockefeller House, and the wildlife and plants in the area. The magnolia leaves form a thick carpet under the trees, along with last year's seed pods. After your break, keep going right around the Rockefeller House. As you walk, you may notice several bluebird houses set around the area, the result of an Eagle Scout project several years ago. Most of the houses are still in use today, and we regularly check them and ensure they are ready for the next season's broods.
To the right of the Rockefeller House, you'll see the old spring house (covering a natural spring that was used for fresh water and natural cooling) and a gazebo. By the side of the fence, there are two large live oak trees that were planted by the Rockefellers. Enjoy the peace and breeze under the live oaks as you look out onto the millpond, the dam, the old pavilion, and at the far end, the grist mill.
As you continue around the Rockefeller House, notice the two large artillery shells placed near the door by Mr. Rockefeller, a nod to the beginnings of nearby Fort Bragg as an artillery reservation during World War I (originally called Camp Bragg). He served on Fort Bragg during World War II and left the Army as a Lieutenant Colonel.
Completing your circuit of the house, you'll pick up the trail at the signboard again, then continue past the sign for the Cypress Point Loop Trail. Next month, we'll talk about that trail, so for now, stay on the Rockefeller Troop Trail. You'll climb a short rise, and see on your right the house that Ms. Mac, the Rockefeller's housekeeper, lived in. If you walk around the house, you'll find a small stand of Carolina allspice, which is very fragrant during the summer months.
Heading back to the trail, you'll walk through the pines with oaks and other trees mixed in the understory. Watch the trail for deer tracks and listen for birdsong as your pass through. This time of year, you might hear cardinals, some of the various woodpeckers that live in the park, American crows, tufted titmice, Carolina chickadees, and others. Take a moment to pause and just take it all in.
The trail will soon turn hard to left, and you'll begin to walk the boundary with the nearby neighborhood. The trail rises slowly until you reach the high point, where you'll see the other end of the fireline you passed earlier, and an ephemeral pool on your left. Ephemeral or vernal pools are temporary wetlands that may or may not have standing water, and they serve as a protected place for amphibians and insects to breed and grow. Come back in April and look for the pool again, and you'll most likely find several hundred tadpoles scattered within it.
Now continue down the trail, enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells of the forest. The woods are " lovely, dark and deep" indeed, but unlike our friend Robert Frost, you have less than a mile to go before you return to where you started. The trail stays straight and level for a time, then turns once again to the left. A fireline goes to your right but isn't open to the public.
You only have about a quarter mile left now. Take you time and enjoy the walk. This moment won't come again. Practice walking as quietly as you can, phones silenced, and voices hushed. What can you see? What can you hear? Engage all your senses as you finish your walk and come back out on the main road. The parking lot is to your left and the old tobacco drying barn in front of you. Welcome back.
Ranger Tips from Ranger Anderson
When observing nature: Observe with more than just your eyes. What's that sweet smell? Where is that bird calling from? Did you find something cool and want to know what it is? Take a picture and ID it with an app like "Seek" or "iNaturalist." You can even show a park ranger or a park naturalist and we'll do our best to help you find an answer!
Books for Outdoor Education
We were recently asked about good books to help with outdoor education. Some of our favorites are:
- The Amateur Naturalist's Handbook by Vinson Brown. Published in 1924 by Little Brown & Co. This book is out of print but you can find used copies.
- The Nature Observer's Handbook by John W. Brainerd. Published in 1986 by Globe Pequot Press.
- Any good field guide (Peterson, Audubon, Sibley). Just take it outside and start working on your identification skills!
Carvers Creek Trail Quest
Come join us in celebrating the Year of the Trail by walking 100 miles throughout 2023!
Hit 100 miles by walking on Carvers Creek's own trails! Visit our Sandhills access or Long Valley Farm access to hike and work towards milestone prizes! Pick up a mileage log at our park office to get started.